By Yashi Gudka
New York Fashion, week which ran from September 7-13 as per usual, kicked off the rest of the fashion weeks showcasing Spring/Summer 2018 collections. Perhaps one of the biggest changes that occurred was the relocation of iconic shows like Proenza Schouler and Altuzarra to Paris. In the past few seasons, NYFW has seen many highly influential American designers move their shows to other locations. On the contrary, other fashion powerhouses, most notably, Tom Ford and Fenty x Puma returned to the city.
I found that this season was the most diverse NYFW has ever been; I can’t help but think it may be related to the theme of “Americana”. The variation in models’ colour, body type, and features embody this theme and reflect the diversity in this country.
Among my favourite shows this season were Tom Ford, Eckhaus Latta and Christian Siriano.
I was pleasantly surprised that Tom Ford returned to New York this year and his collection could be described as none other than F*cking Fabulous, like his new fragrance. He consistently designs clothes that are glamorous, oh so sexy, and wearable luxe. His latest collection was filled with sequins, blazers, and leathers of all different colours. Post-show, he talked about his inspiration for the show, quoting “I’ve been living in L.A. and people wear sports clothes in the daytime, and in the evening they wear mega eveningwear”. His impeccable tailoring took the sportswear inspired clothes to another level. I am one of those people who is firmly against wearing activewear in a non-active environment, but if I could get my hands on some of his pieces I would definitely wear them!
My only concern with the show was his casting; I was rather disappointed seeing “instagram” and celebrity status models on the catwalk. I believe that there are plenty of other models that are equally if not more talented and resemble his brand better.
In my opinion, this emerging brand that has creeped up in popularity over the last few years has consolidated its presence this year at NYFW. Designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta are unafraid to break boundaries in casting and clothing. I adored the androgyneity and nakedness of the collection. I think it represented how fluid and customizable clothing can be, with pieces that can be layered and worn by any gender. The collection was more on the casual side, but each look that went down the runway was polished and tailored. I believe the show was the most diverse at NYFW featuring a pregnant woman, and multiple “plus-sized” women.
This collection of Siriano’s is meant to be worn by powerful women on lavish occasions such as awards shows or banquets. He was inspired by a psychedelic garden which was clearly reflected in the balance of colours and floral prints with more neutral and solid looks. I really liked how his collection featured a range of beautiful ultra feminine, but strong silhouettes. One of the highlights of his show was front row guest Leslie Jones who unabashedly cheered and gasped at the models walking down the catwalk. Her reaction was unlike conventional fashion show etiquette, showing that fashion should be more fun and vivacious. His casting was also the most inclusive it has ever been- featuring multiple genders, shapes, sizes, and colours.