By Isabelle Hahn
Fresh, dewy skin has always been a staple for New York Fashion Week. The natural no-makeup look has, of course, made a comeback this year but is being interrupted by new, graphic eyeliner trends. We’ve all heard of using white liner on your waterline to make your eyes seem bigger, but designer Ulla Johnson’s use of white liner under the eye made her models’ eyes pop from the runway. The white upside-down liner is a sleek twist on the classic wing.
The classic Oscar de la Renta cat-eye came with a youthful pastel color this season, inspired by the colors in the collection. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux’s subtle use of lavender, cerulean, bubblegum, copper and green pigment under the wing gave every look a fun twist- without pulling attention from the beauty of the clothes.
If we’re talking about fashion week eyeliner trends, we can’t forget about Tom Ford’s rounded wing cat-eye. Daring, bold and sparkly, makeup artist Pat McGrath called the look “slightly dangerous, but very expensive.” She created the look because she wanted the models to look assertive, exciting and dangerous. McGrath used pencil liner, Tom Ford’s Eye Defining Pencil, to create the look. Rounded eyeliner is much more forgiving than the usual, precise wing, making it much easier to recreate.
Marc Jacobs always features extreme beauty looks in his shows, but this year focused on tucked back hair, clean skin and traditional black liner— Well, not too traditional. Makeup artist Diane Kendal tailored different cat-eye looks according to each model’s eye shape, allowing for many variations of the classic liner to walk the runway. Fresh skin and nude lips paired well with the stunning liner that Marc Jacobs beauty described as a crossover between sport and couture.
The allure and romance of the spring 2018 Brock Collection was perfectly matched with pink eyeshadow and lips. Makeup artist Gucci Westman took Maybelline’s Color Sensational Matte Metallic Lipstick in Molten Bronze, and swept it on each of the models’ lash lines. She chose fuchsia eyeshadow, brushed on to create an effortless look. The warm-toned shadow continued on the bottom lash line helped with the sultry, romantic effect. The eyeshadow palette that Westman used will also be available soon: Maybelline New York’s Burgundy Bar Palette, featuring 12 warm eye shadow shades.
Alexander Wang’s warm, peachy eyeshadow, natural lip and dewy skin is an easy look to incorporate into your everyday beauty routine, but what turned heads at his show was Stella Lucia’s eight-hour dye job. Her platinum blonde was turned to what Vogue described as 90s Kate Moss-inspired fuchsia. The colorist, John Wood, called the color a combination of glamour and angst, and that it had a striking effect in a sea of natural hair and makeup.